Columbia SC Landscapers | Blade & Petal Landscaping Call 803.254.0818

Columbia's SC Landscaper of Choice


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Our professional services include

Mowing: With this landscaping maintenance service, we will mow and maintain your grass weekly beginning around the end of March or first of April. We will also trim and edge any sidewalks and obstacles and blow clippings from concrete surfaces.
Fertilizing: We will fertilize your lawn six times per growing season to keep it looking its best. We can also perform any spot treatments if necessary to promote proper lawn growth.
Bed Care Treatment: As part of our landscaping maintenance services, we will help minimize and control weeds in your landscaping by applying weed control treatments to your flower and plant beds.
Bed Clean-Up: We suggest two bed clean-ups per year to remove the debris, leaves, and pine needles that will collect in your plant beds.
Shovel Edging: This landscaping maintenance service will create a clearly defined bed/turf line around all landscaped beds and trees. In addition, shovel edging will help eliminate a lot of the mulch run off into the grass during thunderstorms.
Mulching: With our mulching services, we will spread mulch in all of your beds and around your trees as needed for aesthetic appeal and weed control.
Cultivation of Mulch: This landscaping maintenance service will rejuvenate the original color of your mulch and help to promote the exchange of nutrients and water for optimal plant growth.
Trimming and Pruning: With this service, we will trim and prune any shrubs, plants, and ornamental grasses to ensure good shape and plant health.
Irrigation Startup & Backflow Test: A system startup for your irrigation system includes turning the water on, replacing the batter in the clock, checking the sprinkler head coverage, and completing a test for county records.
Irrigation Inspection: As part of our landscaping maintenance services, we will inspect your irrigation system three times per year to ensure proper coverage.
Irrigation Winterization: The fall shutdown of your irrigation system includes turning off the water main, blowing all lines free of water, and draining the backflow device.
Lawn Aeration: Aeration is an important landscaping maintenance service that will reduce soil compaction and allow fertilizers to beautify your turf.
Over-Seeding: We perform over-seeding services following aeration in order to ensure a healthy and full lawn.
Tree Trimming: Tree trimming is an important landscaping maintenance service that will keep your trees healthy and properly shaped. During this service, we will eliminate dead, damaged, or unproductive branches, and remove any limbs that obstruct sidewalks or roads.
Leaf Removal: With our leaf removal service, we will remove fallen leaves from both your landscaping beds and turf areas.
Spring & Fall Annual Planting: We can plant a variety of annual flowers and plants throughout your landscape to provide color and design in any season.
Flower Care: This landscaping maintenance service will keep your flowers looking their best. It includes weeding, minor pruning, watering, and fertilizing flowers and annuals.
Preparation of Annual Beds: This service prepares beds for planting by cultivating the soil and adding necessary amendments to the soil to help with the annuals growth.
Removal of Annuals: This landscaping maintenance service includes removing any dead annuals after the growing season has ended.
Tree & Shrub Care: We will apply a number of treatments to your trees and shrubs in order to ensure health and prevent disease or insects.

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Benefits of including Mulch

Mulching: Our mulching service includes applying mulch to all of the necessary plant beds, flower beds, and trees. All of the mulched areas will receive a fresh layer of 2” of mulch that is spread evenly throughout the bed and in the tree rings.
Cultivation of Mulch: This mulching service cultivates the mulch in order to help promote the exchange of nutrients and water for plant material. Cultivation also helps to rejuvenate the original color of the mulch for aesthetic appeal. We perform mulch cultivation services twice per season, including once in July and again in the fall.

With our residential mulching services, we can apply a variety of types and colors of mulch to your property. Each of these different types of mulch can be used to create a unique look or style. The types of mulch we use for our mulching services include:
Double Ground Hardwood Mulch
Triple Ground Mulch
Dyed Brown Mulch
Dyed Red Mulch
Dyed Black Mulch
Cedar Mulch
Rubber Mulch
Pine Nuggets

 

 
Benefits of Mulching:
Helps soil retain moisture during hot Columbia summers in order to reduce watering needs and promote plant health
Reduces the growth of weeds and grasses which reduce aesthetic appeal and compete with trees and plants for water and nutrients
Reduces erosion around trees by softening the impact of rain
Adds organic material to the soil for improved plant growth
Increases the aesthetic appeal of your landscaping and plant beds
Protects trees, plants, shrubs, and flowers from being damaged by mowers


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When a regular mower just will not handle it, call a Bush Hog

Blade and Petal Landscaping offers Bush Hog Mowing Services in Columbia and surrounding locations.

Bush hog mowing involves using specialized lawn mowing equipment to cut tall grass and brush from fields and other overgrown areas. At Blade and Petal Landscaping, we offer our bush hog mowing services to handle nearly any size job. Whether you have a large private property or a plot of commercial land in need of clearing, we can mow your tall grass and brush that an ordinary mower would not be able to handle.

As a leading lawn care and landscaping company, our bush hog mowing services are available to clients located throughout Columbia and surrounding area. With our specialized bush hog mowing equipment, we can meet the needs of many commercial and residential customers. Learn more about our bush hog mowing services or schedule your mowing service by contacting is for availability.

 
What is Bush Hog Mowing?

Bush hog mowing is the ideal choice when you need to clear or mow a large property that has become overgrown with tall grasses, shrubs, plants, and small trees. A bush hog is a large mower that is designed to be attached to the back of a tractor. Bush hog mowers are much more powerful than traditional lawn mowers, and can be used to clear everything from large weeds to small trees and shrubs in a very short amount of time. Because bush hog mowers are equipped with a thick, dull blade attached to hinges, they are resistant against rocks, large stumps, and other potential hazards. Bush hog mowing can be used over rough or smooth terrain including clearing large flat lots as well as inclines and ditches.

With our bush hog mowing services, we can provide mowing services for nearly any size or type of job. No matter how overgrown your land or property has become, we have the equipment and power needed to take down tall grasses, small shrubs, and saplings on any overgrown property or land. Our bush hog mowing services can easily handle the types of projects that would clog or stop a regular mower.

Our bush hog mowing services are available for mowing and clearing:
Fields
Vacant Lots
Overgrown Construction Sites and Development Properties
Retention Ponds
Power Line Right-of-Ways
Roadsides
Commercial Properties
Large Private and Residential Properties
Industrial Lots
Farm Properties
Ditches and Inclines
Animal Pastures and Fields
Subdivision Land


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Longer green enjoyment and less maintenance.

 

Zoysiagrass originated from areas in Southeast Asia, China and Japan. It is a low growing, creeping grass, heat resistant, wiry, possibly uncomfortable under the bare foot. Zoysia is slow to establish but aggressive and competes with weeds for its own space.

Zoysiagrasses (Zoysia species) grow best during the warm (80 to 95 °F) months of spring, summer and early fall. They grow vigorously during this time and become brown and dormant in winter. They are adapted to the entire state and are some of the most cold-tolerant of the warm-season grasses.

These grasses form an excellent turf when properly established and managed. For the best appearance, zoysias require cutting with a reel mower, although a rotary mower with sharp blades is satisfactory. They also require occasional watering and periodic thinning or dethatching. Once this grass is established, thatch can build up, especially when heavily fertilized. Remove thatch every two to three years.

The zoysias form a dense, attractive turf in full sun and partial shade, but often thin out in dense shade. Most zoysias grow very slowly compared to other grasses and usually are established by sprigging or plugging, although there are seeded types. Sprigs or plugs, 2 inches in diameter planted on 6-inch centers, will cover completely in two growing seasons if watered and fertilized properly. However, it may require several years to cover if not properly maintained. As it is a slow grower, it requires less frequent mowing than some other grasses. It will, however, recover slowly from damage due to its slow growth habit.

Zoysia japonica is sometimes called Japanese or Korean lawngrass or common zoysia. It has coarse leaf texture, excellent cold tolerance, and it can be seeded.

Meyer zoysia, also called “Z-52,” is an improved selection of Z. japonica. It has medium leaf texture, good cold tolerance and spreads more rapidly than most other zoysias. This is the zoysia often advertised as the “super” grass in newspapers and magazines.

Belaire is also an improved Z. japonica variety noted for its excellent cold tolerance and medium green color. It has a coarser leaf texture and faster rate of establishment than Meyer. It is susceptible to brown patch disease.

Emerald zoysia is a fine-textured hybrid that is possibly the most attractive zoysia. It is well-suited for top-quality lawns where a good maintenance program is provided. Emerald zoysia has less winter hardiness but more shade tolerance than Meyer. It has a dark green color, a very fine leaf texture, good shade tolerance, high shoot density and a low growth habit. Emerald will develop excess thatch rather quickly if overfertilized and is prone to winter injury northward from the Columbia area.

El Toro is a relatively new zoysia that was developed in California and looks like Meyer zoysia. It is the fastest growing zoysia, tolerates mowing with a rotary mower and produces less thatch than Meyer. The winter hardiness of this grass is not well-established although it can be found growing in the Columbia area.

Zenith is a hybrid zoysia that is available as seed. It has a medium dark green color, a medium density, and will tolerate light shade. It is planted in late spring to early summer with a seeding rate of 1 to 2 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet. The seed should be very lightly covered with soil by raking. Cover the seeded area with straw to retain soil moisture during the germination period. Water the newly seeded lawn very lightly three or four times per day to keep the seed moist for best germination.

The seed will germinate in ten or more days. Gradually reduce watering frequency, but give the lawn longer soakings to establish the new grass root system.

In general, the zoysias are slow to cover completely (thus more costly to establish), less drought-tolerant than bermudagrass, and recommended for lawn use only when the homeowner is willing to provide the required maintenance.

 

For more information about Zoysia care, please see “Lawn Care” at the top right.

 


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Do’s and Don’t when planning your landscaping

When beginning your landscape from scratch or reconstructing,  simply walk out into the yard in the far back corner and stand. Give yourself some time and just imagine what the best look.  Be sure to take in account the size of yard you have, what the neighbors may have done, what you have done in the past, or if you need to keep it clean for the kids. Take notes of ideas from others you know and professionals. Look on the internet. Look on the TV. Look into magazines, coffee shops, home depot, etc. A few meditative minutes could save you hours of frustration.

 

Taking away lawn and putting in a large patio or brick surfacing will be easier to maintain.  A fun yard is a soft yard when asking children. There is no substitute for grass. It is hard to put in, but once it is there, the maintenance really isn’t that bad. A lawn is a much better choice than gravel or pavement. Excessive gardens and small pathways will actually create more mud because the grass will be so trodden on that it can’t grow back.

 

Define what the focal point is in the landscaping design. It is an element in the yard that draws the attention of the eye. A good example of one is a fountain, or small pond. The focal point will be different for every yard. A bad example would be a yard with nothing but a lawn. No matter how flat and fluffy the lawn is, it won’t be talked about by the neighbors unless you have a focal point feature such as a fountain or a fire pit. But don’t go overboard. A nice little pond never hurt anyone.

 

You most likely have an idea of how much you want to spend on your landscape project. Be sure that whatever you put in your yard, you are going to use. An example of this is the expensive outdoor kitchen that gets used once a year. There are all kinds of appliances that appear to be necessary for a decent yard. Remember that you have a kitchen in the house. Spend the money where it counts and don’t get carried away.

 

Mixing and Matching is harder than it looks and must be done. Designing a landscape is a lot like writing a musical composition. Playing the same note isn’t very exciting, but adding sharps and flats here and there, with multiple instruments, creates a feel for the listener. It is the same with landscaping. Use tall and small trees. Plant violet and yellow flowers. Stay away from the sameness look. It does get more complicated, but it is well worth it. Mixing and matching is great with color and objects, but the style must stay the same, or else you will be spending a lot more money on Tylenol to get rid of those headaches.

 

Much like mixing and matching, the style you choose must be consistent and appealing. The best way to get ideas on style is to go on a Sunday afternoon drive. See what other people have done, or haven’t done. By looking at others strengths and mistakes, you’ll be able to make an educated decision on which style will look best for your home. Once again, speaking with the professionals at Blade and Petal Landscaping won’t hurt. Once you pick a style, stick to it. If you mix the wrong styles, you won’t have one.

 

When treated the right way, lighting can be used to your great advantage. It is a chance to focus on the items in your yard that you cherish the most, such as a lit up fountain. Not only does lighting provide a pristine look, it also provides security, safety and a higher electrical bill, so be careful not to buy the high energy light bulbs. If you plan on spending a lot of time on your back patio sipping ice cold beverages next to the fire, give your guests something to look at. Some good ideas for lighting would be lighted paths, fountains or flowerbeds.

 

The hardscape of a yard adds character. You will want to leave room for the lawn, walkways and such, but you ought to consider adding patios and steps. This gives you an opportunity to add accents to Mother Nature in your yard. Good hardscaping leads you through the landscape and gives you a sense of what the designer was trying to capture. You will also want to provide a spot where you can sit and look at your landscape. Don’t make the only view the one from the window. It may be the most difficult thing to design, but it will be the most beneficial feature to your yard.

 

The best investment you can make for your yard is picking the best plants from a local, professional grower or nursery.  Speak to a local plant nursery and ask them for their advice. They will know what plants do the best, and they may even try to sell you some. The look of your yard will also be dependent on how well your plants look in relation to surrounding houses and parks. You don’t have to be the same as everyone, but you ought to be a quite similar.

 

The most important decisions you’ll make will hardly be noticed with the naked eye. You must have proper drainage, a solid deck foundation and the pond must have the appropriate amount of sand and gravel underneath. Another important decision is the hardware, or sprinklers. Be sure to get your sprinklers done properly and no shortcuts. If you let anything slide, you may be digging your yard up a few times a year to make repairs that should have been done correctly the first time.

 

We at Blade and Petal Landscaping hope this information has been helpful.  You know what you like and dislike.  We are here to help you sort through your ideas to create that landscaping that your friends talk about.  Homeownership pride begins on the outside.


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Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass is one of the few warm season grass varieties that will grow a little further north into the colder climates —  see the adaptation map below. It will turn brown at the first dip in temperature though. More cold tolerant and high quality varieties are being developed constantly  — such as Yukon Bermuda grass seed. In the more warmer tropical south, during average rainfall years, Bermuda will retain a beautiful green color all year round. This grass can be grown on low to high maintenance schedules depending upon the usage. Lawns planted in Bermuda grass can attain full lawn coverage in one year. It is not uncommon for seeded Bermuda lawns to be established within 60-90 days.

Annual Maintenance Schedule

March Through May Mowing: Bermuda grass performs best when mowed between ¾ and 1½ inches. Begin mowing as soon as the lawn turns green in spring. Always leave the clippings on the lawn in a practice called ‘grass-cycling’. Grass clippings decompose quickly and do not contribute to thatch. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings begin to clump, they can be collected and used as mulch. For more information on mowing, refer to HGIC 1205, Mowing Lawns. Fertilizing: Apply ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet several weeks after complete green-up. Submit a soil sample to determine nutrient and lime requirements. In the absence of a soil test, use a slow-release, complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf fertilizer with a 4-1-2 ratio such as 16-4-8. Apply lime if suggested. To determine the amount of product needed to apply 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 16-4-8 fertilizer, divide 100 by 16. The result is 6.25 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet (100/16 = 6.25 of 16-4-8). For more information on fertilizing lawns refer to HGIC 1201, Fertilizing Lawns. Irrigation: As a general rule, irrigate when 30 to 50 percent of the lawn shows sign of wilt. Probe with a screwdriver to ensure the top 4 to 6 inches of soil are moist following irrigation. Do not irrigate again until the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermuda grass needs a total weekly application of about 1 to 1 ¼ inches of water. Sandy soils often require more frequent watering, for example, ¾-inch of water every third or fourth day. For more information on watering lawns refer to HGIC 1207, Watering Lawns. Weed Control: Apply pre-emergence herbicides to control summer annual weeds when forsythia or red buds are in full bloom. Apply post emergence herbicides in May as needed to control summer annual and perennial broad leaf weeds. Be sure that the product is labeled for use on bermuda grass. Post emergence herbicides are applied when weeds are present, and at least three weeks after the lawn has greened up. For more information on weed control refer to HGIC 2310, Managing Weeds in Warm Season Lawns. Thatch Removal: Vertically mow in May to remove the thatch after the lawn becomes green, but only if the thatch is more than ½-inch thick. After de-thatching, irrigate with ¾ to 1 inch of water. Fertilize with 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet if the lawn has not already been fertilized. Renovation:Replant large bare areas using sod or sprigs (3 to 5 bushels per 1,000 square feet). Common bermuda grass can be seeded using hulled bermuda grass at 1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Do not seed hybrid bermuda grass lawns with common bermuda grass. Use sod or sprigs of the existing hybrid instead.

June Through August

Mowing: Bermuda grass performs best when mowed between ¾ and 1½ inches. Fertilizing: Apply ½ to 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet every 4 to 8 weeks. Irrigation: As a general rule, irrigate when 30 to 50% of the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermuda grass needs a total weekly application of about 1 to 1¼ inches of water. Insect Control: August is the best time to control white grubs because they are small and close to the soil surface. Mole crickets will begin to hatch in June. Use a soap flush technique to determine if mole crickets are present. For details on the soap flush technique, see EIIS/TO-1, Mole Cricket Management for the Home Lawn. Weed Control: Apply post emergence herbicides as needed to control summer annual and perennial weeds. For more information on weed control, see HGIC 2310, Managing Weeds in Warm Season Lawns. Thatch Removal: Vertically mow to remove the thatch if it is more than ½ inch thick. It normally is best to vertically mow in spring whenever possible.

September Through November Mowing: Mow the lawn between ¾ and 1½ inches until several weeks before the first expected frost. Raise the mowing height by ½ inch as winter approaches if the lawn will not be over seeded. Mowing height is usually raised in mid to late September in the Piedmont and early October in other areas. Fertilization: In September, if a soil test reports deficient potassium (K) levels, apply 1 pound of potash (K2O) per 1000 square feet, using muriate of potash (0-0-60), potassium sulfate (0-0-50), or Sul-Po-Mag (0-0-22). Irrigation: Irrigate when 30 to 50% of the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermuda grass needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1¼ inches of water. Dormant bermuda grass may need to be watered periodically when dry, warm, windy weather prevails. Weed Control: Apply pre-emergence or post emergence herbicides as needed to control winter annual and perennial broad leaf weeds. Pre-emergence herbicides are most effective when applied as nighttime temperatures drop into the upper 50s. Preemergence herbicides do not control existing perennial weeds. Apply post emergence herbicides only when weeds are present. Do not apply herbicides designed to control annual bluegrass if the lawn is to be over seeded with ryegrass. Insect Control: Continue to monitor for white grubs and control if necessary. Overseeding: Overseeding with ryegrass for winter color should be done in mid September in mountain and Piedmont areas, and early October in coastal areas.

December Through February Mowing: Mow over seeded bermuda grass at 1 inch before the grass gets taller than 1½ inches. Do not collect the clippings unless they accumulate heavily on the surface. Dormant bermuda grass that has not been over seeded need not be mowed. Overseed Fertilization: Do not fertilize bermuda grass that has not been over seeded. Apply ½ pound of N per 1,000 square feet in December and February to over seeded bermuda grass. Irrigation: Dormant bermuda grass may have to be watered periodically to prevent desiccation, especially when warm, windy weather prevails. Watering is particularly important for lawns that have been over seeded. Weed Control: Apply broad leaf herbicides as needed to control winter weeds such as chickweed, henbit, and hop clover. Selective herbicides can be applied in November or December to lawns that have not been over seeded to control annual bluegrass (Poa annua) and several winter annual broadleaf weeds.

 


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Centipede grass

For a maintenance schedule for Centipede care, visit our “LAWN CARE” at top of page.

This creeping perennial is well adapted to the sandy, acidic soils of low fertility and requires low maintenance. It spreads by stolons and has a coarse texture with short upright stems that grow to about 3-5 inches and requiring less mowing, survives in mild cold temperatures as long as there aren’t several hard freezes since it doesn’t go into a true dormancy and with light freezes will turn brown but as soon as the temperature rises it will recover and re-greens.

Centipede grass is a slow-growing, apple-green, coarse-leaved turf grass that is adapted for use as a low maintenance, general purpose turf. It requires little fertilizer (one to two pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year), infrequent mowing, and will tolerate moderate shade if it receives at least four hours of full sun, daily. It does not tolerate traffic, compaction, high phosphorus soils, high pH, low-potassium soils, excessive thatch, drought, or heavy shade. Centipede grass (Eremochloa ophiuroides) was introduced into the United States from seed found in the baggage of Frank Meyer, a USDA plant explorer who disappeared on his fourth trip to China in 1916. It was initially used for low-maintenance cemeteries and eventually for lawns during and after the Depression and is sometimes referred to as “lazy man’s grass” or “poor man’s grass”. It is well adapted to the climate and soils of the coastal plains and lower Piedmont areas of the southern United States.

Centipede grass is a low-growing and medium-textured naturally yellow-green colored perennial turf. Its low fertility requirements result in slow growth and reduced maintenance. Centipede grass’ natural color is Granny Smith crab apple green. Over fertilizing to obtain an unnatural dark green color reduces its cold tolerance and usually increases long-term maintenance problems. Centipede grass is currently the most common home lawn turf grass in the South. Centipede grass is adapted to infertile soils. It spreads by stolons, producing a medium-textured turf. Maintenance requirements are low when compared to other turf grasses. It has fair to good shade tolerance, good drought tolerance, and can be established from seed or sod. Since it only produces surface runners (stolons), centipede grass is easily controlled around borders of flowerbeds and walks. Centipede grass is highly susceptible to damage from nematodes (especially ring nematodes) and ground pearl insects. Nematode damage limits centipede grass’ use in deep sandy soils. It exhibits iron Chloris (yellowing) and produces a heavy thatch if over fertilized. It has poor salt tolerance and forms a loose turf that is not very wear-resistant, so it will not withstand heavy foot traffic. Stolons from centipede grass have high lignin content and do not decompose readily, thus developing a thatch layer. The rate of thatch accumulation is a direct result of management practices, which provide excessive vegetative growth. When over fertilized, the subsequent growth means new runners are soon several inches above the soil surface and exposed to the wide fluctuations of temperatures normally experienced in late fall and winter. Within several years, large brown dead patches form in early spring. This die back is collectively referred to as “centipede grass decline.” Following proper management techniques can prevent this problem: Avoid over fertilizing (e.g., 0 to 2 lbs N per 1000 sq.ft. yearly) Prevent thatch accumulation or remove thatch when it exceeds ½-inch in thickness Irrigate during drought stress, especially in the fall and early spring Maintain a mowing height of 1½ to 2 inches.

Improved varieties of centipede grass are available, including Centennial, Oaklawn, Tenn Turf (formerly, Tennessee Hardy), Top Quality and TifBlair. The improved cultivars have better cold tolerance than common. However, these must be vegetatively propagated and are selected specifically for their improved cold tolerance. Centennial will perform a little better on alkaline soil than common centipede grass. The centipede grass seed and sod produced in most Southern areas are a mixture of red- and yellow-stemmed grasses.