Columbia SC Landscapers | Blade & Petal Landscaping Call 803.254.0818

Columbia's SC Landscaper of Choice

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Our professional services include

Mowing: With this landscaping maintenance service, we will mow and maintain your grass weekly beginning around the end of March or first of April. We will also trim and edge any sidewalks and obstacles and blow clippings from concrete surfaces.
Fertilizing: We will fertilize your lawn six times per growing season to keep it looking its best. We can also perform any spot treatments if necessary to promote proper lawn growth.
Bed Care Treatment: As part of our landscaping maintenance services, we will help minimize and control weeds in your landscaping by applying weed control treatments to your flower and plant beds.
Bed Clean-Up: We suggest two bed clean-ups per year to remove the debris, leaves, and pine needles that will collect in your plant beds.
Shovel Edging: This landscaping maintenance service will create a clearly defined bed/turf line around all landscaped beds and trees. In addition, shovel edging will help eliminate a lot of the mulch run off into the grass during thunderstorms.
Mulching: With our mulching services, we will spread mulch in all of your beds and around your trees as needed for aesthetic appeal and weed control.
Cultivation of Mulch: This landscaping maintenance service will rejuvenate the original color of your mulch and help to promote the exchange of nutrients and water for optimal plant growth.
Trimming and Pruning: With this service, we will trim and prune any shrubs, plants, and ornamental grasses to ensure good shape and plant health.
Irrigation Startup & Backflow Test: A system startup for your irrigation system includes turning the water on, replacing the batter in the clock, checking the sprinkler head coverage, and completing a test for county records.
Irrigation Inspection: As part of our landscaping maintenance services, we will inspect your irrigation system three times per year to ensure proper coverage.
Irrigation Winterization: The fall shutdown of your irrigation system includes turning off the water main, blowing all lines free of water, and draining the backflow device.
Lawn Aeration: Aeration is an important landscaping maintenance service that will reduce soil compaction and allow fertilizers to beautify your turf.
Over-Seeding: We perform over-seeding services following aeration in order to ensure a healthy and full lawn.
Tree Trimming: Tree trimming is an important landscaping maintenance service that will keep your trees healthy and properly shaped. During this service, we will eliminate dead, damaged, or unproductive branches, and remove any limbs that obstruct sidewalks or roads.
Leaf Removal: With our leaf removal service, we will remove fallen leaves from both your landscaping beds and turf areas.
Spring & Fall Annual Planting: We can plant a variety of annual flowers and plants throughout your landscape to provide color and design in any season.
Flower Care: This landscaping maintenance service will keep your flowers looking their best. It includes weeding, minor pruning, watering, and fertilizing flowers and annuals.
Preparation of Annual Beds: This service prepares beds for planting by cultivating the soil and adding necessary amendments to the soil to help with the annuals growth.
Removal of Annuals: This landscaping maintenance service includes removing any dead annuals after the growing season has ended.
Tree & Shrub Care: We will apply a number of treatments to your trees and shrubs in order to ensure health and prevent disease or insects.


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Benefits of including Mulch

Mulching: Our mulching service includes applying mulch to all of the necessary plant beds, flower beds, and trees. All of the mulched areas will receive a fresh layer of 2” of mulch that is spread evenly throughout the bed and in the tree rings.
Cultivation of Mulch: This mulching service cultivates the mulch in order to help promote the exchange of nutrients and water for plant material. Cultivation also helps to rejuvenate the original color of the mulch for aesthetic appeal. We perform mulch cultivation services twice per season, including once in July and again in the fall.

With our residential mulching services, we can apply a variety of types and colors of mulch to your property. Each of these different types of mulch can be used to create a unique look or style. The types of mulch we use for our mulching services include:
Double Ground Hardwood Mulch
Triple Ground Mulch
Dyed Brown Mulch
Dyed Red Mulch
Dyed Black Mulch
Cedar Mulch
Rubber Mulch
Pine Nuggets


Benefits of Mulching:
Helps soil retain moisture during hot Columbia summers in order to reduce watering needs and promote plant health
Reduces the growth of weeds and grasses which reduce aesthetic appeal and compete with trees and plants for water and nutrients
Reduces erosion around trees by softening the impact of rain
Adds organic material to the soil for improved plant growth
Increases the aesthetic appeal of your landscaping and plant beds
Protects trees, plants, shrubs, and flowers from being damaged by mowers

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When a regular mower just will not handle it, call a Bush Hog

Blade and Petal Landscaping offers Bush Hog Mowing Services in Columbia and surrounding locations.

Bush hog mowing involves using specialized lawn mowing equipment to cut tall grass and brush from fields and other overgrown areas. At Blade and Petal Landscaping, we offer our bush hog mowing services to handle nearly any size job. Whether you have a large private property or a plot of commercial land in need of clearing, we can mow your tall grass and brush that an ordinary mower would not be able to handle.

As a leading lawn care and landscaping company, our bush hog mowing services are available to clients located throughout Columbia and surrounding area. With our specialized bush hog mowing equipment, we can meet the needs of many commercial and residential customers. Learn more about our bush hog mowing services or schedule your mowing service by contacting is for availability.

What is Bush Hog Mowing?

Bush hog mowing is the ideal choice when you need to clear or mow a large property that has become overgrown with tall grasses, shrubs, plants, and small trees. A bush hog is a large mower that is designed to be attached to the back of a tractor. Bush hog mowers are much more powerful than traditional lawn mowers, and can be used to clear everything from large weeds to small trees and shrubs in a very short amount of time. Because bush hog mowers are equipped with a thick, dull blade attached to hinges, they are resistant against rocks, large stumps, and other potential hazards. Bush hog mowing can be used over rough or smooth terrain including clearing large flat lots as well as inclines and ditches.

With our bush hog mowing services, we can provide mowing services for nearly any size or type of job. No matter how overgrown your land or property has become, we have the equipment and power needed to take down tall grasses, small shrubs, and saplings on any overgrown property or land. Our bush hog mowing services can easily handle the types of projects that would clog or stop a regular mower.

Our bush hog mowing services are available for mowing and clearing:
Vacant Lots
Overgrown Construction Sites and Development Properties
Retention Ponds
Power Line Right-of-Ways
Commercial Properties
Large Private and Residential Properties
Industrial Lots
Farm Properties
Ditches and Inclines
Animal Pastures and Fields
Subdivision Land

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Hardscaping and Walls create that distinctive beauty.

Blade and Petal Landscaping work with a complete array of landscaping materials to build retaining walls and walkways. Hardscapes create a natural landscaped environment. Very often, residential or commercial properties feature areas with intertwined hardscape and landscape designs. In these cases it often makes sense to construct the project with a combined hardscape and landscape package.  Patios and Walkways made from flagstone, or decorative pavers.  Retaining walls of dry stacked stone, veneered composite, or landscape blocks.  Fire pits and built-in grills, complementing outdoor living areas and patios.  Water features, ponds and waterfalls

Blade and Petal Landscaping can design and install hardscape features from simple seat walls with decorative paved patios to elaborate hardscape packages, complete with wood structures and water features.
Retaining walls can serve a variety of purposes in landscaping and yards including; retaining soil, providing seating, acting as a border or merely for decoration. Stone or brick retaining walls can be a wonderful accent to any landscape. Blade and Petal Landscaping builds walls that are versatile and extremely durable. Our experienced team of landscape professionals will manage your retaining wall landscaping project from the design stage to installation.
Our walkways offers many customizable walkway and outdoor living options, making the exterior of your home just as personal as the interior.  We create stone, brick, and cement walkways, paths, and patio flooring designs. Once we have laid the initial foundation, we begin the rest of the walkway installation process.
In the final phases of a project the coordination of hardscape, landscape and irrigation installations are critical to ensure that the job is completed on time and without damage to expensive amenities and materials. Thinking about that outdoor kitchen, patio or other outdoor living space? We can help you visualize how to place landscape elements such as a stone patio, and retaining walls to create a fantastic backyard oasis.

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The yucky turf diseases that can wipeout a beautiful lawn.

Turf diseases can be serious when weather and/or lawn management favor disease development. Plant diseases, including the common lawn diseases develop when several conditions occur simultaneously and persist. Fungi, the most common cause of lawn diseases, are microscopic, thread-like organisms that spread by means of air- or water-borne spores. The spores function like seeds, producing new infections whenever the environment is favorable for a period of time and the host is susceptible. Disease develops when the pathogen (fungus) is present on a susceptible host (bluegrass) in a favorable environment (temperature, moisture/water, light, nutrients, and stress factors).

Lawn diseases are not always easy to diagnose. Some key factors and symptoms to help recognize disease include: size and shape of dead and dying plants, specific spots on leaves, quality of root system, leaf color and growth characteristics, time of year, and temperature when disease developed. When diagnosing a lawn disease it is helpful to have a record of treatments such as fertilizer, herbicides, mowing height and frequency, watering frequency and amounts.

Grass disease can ruin a lawn’s appearance. However, good turf management practices usually are adequate to prevent serious damage. Integrated cultural practices for turf management and pest control will limit the need for fungicides. Disease development often is associated with the lack of proper application of these turf management practices: 1) selection and planting of an adapted grass variety, 2) sufficient water at the correct time, 3) timely fertilization with the right amounts and balanced nutrients, 4) regular mowing at the recommended height, 5) provision for adequate sunlight and air movement, 6) maintenance of good soil aeration and drainage, and 7) thatch management.

Some of the types of turf diseases are:

Leaf Spot and Melting Out

Leaf spot and melting out are among the most frequent and destructive lawn diseases of common bluegrass. Melting out is caused by the fungus Drechslera poae and leaf spot by the fungus Bipolaris sorokiniana. Excess thatch, heavy nitrogen fertilization, excess shade, mowing too close, and broadleaf herbicides promote these diseases. The melting out pathogen, D. poae, can also cause leaf spots. Conversely, the leaf spot pathogen, B. sorokiniana, can also causing melting out symptoms.

Purple to brown spots with lighter centers develop on leaves and leaf sheaths infected with leaf spot/melting out fungi.

Leaf spot occurs in warm weather and is easily recognized. Spots on the leaves develop purplish-red to purplish-brown borders and brown to tan centers (Figure 1). The spots may extend the width of the leaf and are somewhat longer than wide. Leaf spots may cause the death of leaf tips. Leaf sheaths are also infected, and may die, resulting in thin stands of grass. Melting out begins as spots on the leaf blades and rapidly moves down the leaf sheath and into crowns and roots. In advanced stages, when many plants die in a large irregular patch, it is known as “melting out” (Figure 2). These patches may range in size from several inches up to many feet and may produce an irregular patchwork across an entire lawn.

Thinning out of the turf occurs when crowns are killed by leaf spot/melting out fungi.

Once established, melting out is difficult to control. Proper watering and fertilization for bluegrass varieties in your lawn will reduce the danger of melting out. Common Kentucky bluegrass should not be fertilized as heavily as the elite blue grass varieties or high maintenance diseases will develop. It is particularly important to avoid excess use of nitrogen fertilizer and evening watering. Remove excess thatch — the layer of plant material tightly interwoven with living tissue between the soil surface and the green vegetation. Fungicides may be needed to control leaf spot disease. Their effect is temporary and beneficial only when combined with a change in cultural practices. Fungicides are most effective if the initial application is made when leaf spot first becomes serious and less effective when small patches of lawn begin to die. When large areas of a lawn are dying or dead from melting out, dead patches should be reseeded with a resistant variety. Bluegrass varieties differ in their susceptibility to melting out. Older common bluegrass types are often very susceptible while newer elite varieties are usually quite resistant.

Fusarium Blight


Donut or crescent shaped areas of dead or dying grass are symptomatic of the patch disease complex. (WCS)

The disease formerly called “Fusarium Blight” or “Fusarium Blight syndrome” was once thought to be a distinct disease characterized by patches of grass that develop “frog-eye” patterns. These consist of donut-or crescent-shaped areas of dead or dying grass with a center of green grass. Now this disease is recognized to be a complex of rather similar appearing diseases that include Necrotic Ring Spot, Rhizoctonia Yellow Patch, and Summer Patch.


Necrotic Ring Spot


Decomposition of thatch in patch affected turf resulting in sunken or depressed areas.

This is a serious disease of Kentucky bluegrass that is especially common on high maintenance lawns. Necrotic Ring Spot is caused by Leptosphaeria korrae, a fungus which is most active in spring and fall, although symptoms may be observed throughout the season. Initial symptoms are patches 6-24 inches in diameter with a mixture of normal, straw- and red-colored blades around the outer portion of the ring, resulting in a “frog-eye” pattern. The roots and crowns of affected plants are covered with black strands of the Necrotic Ring Spot fungus. Thatch may decompose in the patch areas, giving them a sunken or depressed appearance. In warm weather, the red blades are seldom seen. Plants affected in the cooler weather of spring and fall are weakened and very susceptible to summer heat and drought stress. This stress may lead to the death of weakened plants and an apparent resurgence of symptoms, even though the fungus may not be active at this time.

Once Necrotic Ring Spot is established, it is difficult to control and damage may remain or reappear yearly for 2-4 years. Control requires a combination of management practices including: thatch control, adjustment of fertilizer practices, relieving soil compaction, changing watering practices, and possible use of a fungicide.

Thatch should be kept less than 1/2 inch thick. Vertical mowing or power raking should be done in spring or fall to reduce thatch. The power rake blades should be set to penetrate the thatch to the soil. Lawn mower attachments are less effective in thatch removal. It may take several years for vertical mowing to effect sufficient thatch removal. Top dressing, that is, spreading a thin layer of soil on the grass, is another means to speed thatch breakdown. An aerator can also be used to remove a core of thatch and soil. The soil when deposited on the surface, will aid thatch breakdown. Aeration also reduces soil compaction, improves water penetration, and stimulates root development. In areas where sod of one soil type is placed on soil of another type (for example, peat sod on heavy clay), shallow roots often develop. Aeration will help alleviate this problem. Reducing thatch by any of these methods will help reduce summer drought stress.

Fertilizer practices need to be adjusted. Avoid excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer in the spring. One pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet can be applied in early September, and another when the grass goes dormant after the last mowing (late October to early November). Use a light application (1/2 pound of nitrogen) in the spring and summer only if it is needed to keep the grass growing.

Watering practices must be changed. Use frequent light waterings, to keep the top 1/2-2 inches moist. Irrigation is critical during the summer heat, as the water applied during the day will help relieve both heat and drought stress.

Fungicides may also assist in control, if applied before damage is too severe. Dead patches may be reseeded using a resistant bluegrass variety or ryegrass suitable for lawns. Resodding is usually not effective and the disease may reappear quickly.


Rhizoctonia Yellow Patch


Rings of yellow to brown grass surrounding green grass. This “frog eye” symptom is characteristic of Rhizoctonia yellow patch.

Rhizoctonia Yellow Patch is also a serious disease of Kentucky bluegrass. It is caused by the fungus Rhizoctonia cerealis and is favored by cool, wet weather. Since excessively wet conditions favor Rhizoctonia Yellow Patch, it frequently damages new sod laid on heavy soils and it may occur in lawns with heavy thatch and compacted soils.

Early symptoms are 2-3 inch patches of light green to yellow green grass. These areas soon turn light tan or brown and may increase up to 2 feet in size. A “frog-eye” symptom is common, with yellow-green to brown grass surrounding green centers (Figure 5). The patches may have a sunken appearance due to thatch decomposition. Leaf blades near the margin of the patch may have a reddish to reddish-purple tint beginning at the leaf tip and continuing downward. Tan spots with dark borders may develop on the blades prior to complete blighting. The symptoms and the time of year of occurrence overlap with Necrotic Ring Spot. The roots and crowns of Rhizoctonia Yellow Patch diseased turf do not have black strands of fungus on them.

Cultural controls discussed under Necrotic Ring Spot can be used on Rhizoctonia Yellow Patch. Particular emphasis should be placed on reducing wet conditions and providing aeration where sod is laid on heavy soils. No fungicides are effective for control of Yellow Patch.


Summer Patch


Summer Patch, caused by the fungus Magnaporthe poae, is less common on Kentucky bluegrass. It is a disease that occurs during the hot portion of the summer. The initial symptoms are yellow patches 6-12 inches in diameter. The turf in these patches thins and the remaining turf turns bronze in color. If warm weather continues, all of the turf in the patch may die. The dead patches may be colonized by weedy grasses.

Soil moisture is important in disease development. Excess irrigation or an absence of irrigation during hot weather may make the disease more severe.


Sclerotinia Dollar Spot


Light colored blotchy areas of bluegrass turf infected by the fungi which cause dollar spot.

Dollar Spot, caused by the fungi Lanzia spp. and Moellerodiscus spp., produces 23 inch circular patches on creeping bentgrass turf and 4-6 inch circular to blotchy areas on bluegrass lawns. These patches are straw colored (Figure 6). Early in the morning, when the grass is covered with dew, a faint cobwebby growth may be seen on the leaves of affected plants (Figure 7). In the early stages of disease, leaves develop distinct tan-colored spots and bands; quite often a reddish-brown border can be seen on the leaf spots.

Cobwebby growth visible early in the morning when dew is present on dollar spot affected turf.

Dollar Spot develops at temperatures of 60-85 degrees Fahrenheit with high humidity and low soil moisture. The disease usually develops on lawns which are unfertilized but occasionally occurs on high maintenance lawns under stress. It can be controlled by keeping lawns adequately fertilized and watered and by using a fungicide as necessary. Bluegrass varieties differ in Dollar Spot susceptibility with most being moderately susceptible or moderately resistant.


Rhizoctonia Blight (Formerly Brown Patch)


Rhizoctonia blight produces roughly circular patches of discolored turf one to three feet in diameter.

Rhizoctonia Blight is a hot weather disease. The fungus, Rhizoctonia solani, produces roughly circular patches on lawns. These patches are 1-3 feet in diameter. In humid weather, the outer edge of each patch may have a dark gray to dark purple ring early in the morning while the grass is still covered with dew. This diagnostic symptom, called a “smoke ring,” disappears later in the day. At first the grass has a dark, watersoaked appearance but soon dries out to a light brown (Figure 8).

The Rhizoctonia Blight fungus is most active at 80-90 F temperatures when grass leaves stay wet for a long time. It is most severe when excess nitrogen fertilizer has been used. A night temperature above 70 F and a long dew period favors rapid Rhizoctonia Blight development.

The danger of Rhizoctonia Blight is reduced by following recommended management practices, particularly by avoiding excessive use of nitrogen before hot weather and avoiding excessive thatch buildup. When weather favors this disease, a fungicide may be needed.


Powdery Mildew


Powdery mildew produces a white powder-like growth on the leaves of infected turf.

Powdery Mildew is a common problem on bluegrass lawns in shady areas. The mildew fungus, Erysiphe graminis, attacks the surface of the grass leaves, developing a fine, fungal growth that resembles a white powdery substance on the leaves. In dense shade, Powdery Mildew causes the affected areas of leaves to turn yellow, eventually resulting in the yellowing and dying of lower leaves or even in the death of plants.

Powdery Mildew develops in areas of dense shrubbery or trees where there is poor air circulation, considerable shade, and high humidity. It is favored by temperatures of 60-72 F. In many cases, Powdery Mildew can be controlled by selective pruning of shrubs to allow better air circulation and greater penetration of sunlight. Where Powdery Mildew is a problem, avoid susceptible grass varieties or plant alternate ground covers.


Typhula Blight (Formerly Gray Snow Mold)


Circular patches of diseased turf coalesce to form larger areas of turf affected by Typhula blight.

The snow molds usually appear in the spring as the snow melts from lawns. There are two common types of snow mold: Typhula Blight and Fusarium Patch. They usually can be distinguished by their symptoms, develop under slightly different conditions, and are controlled by different fungicides. Typhula Blight is caused by the low temperature fungi, Typhula incarnata and T. ishikariensis, especially active under the snow covering unfrozen ground.

Typhula Blight damage first appears when the snow is melting. Roughly circular patches 2 to 40 inches or more in diameter develop. These patches are straw colored, and enlarge as long as the grass remains cold and wet from melting snow. The grass in the patches has a matted appearance, and may have a visible gray colored mold growth on the whole patch or on the advancing margin. Hard fungus bodies called sclerotia develop on or are imbedded in the leaves and crowns of affected plants. These sclerotia are more or less spherical in shape. The sclerotia of T. ishikariensis are the size of a pinhead and black; those of T. incarnata are up to 3/16 of an inch in diameter and brown. These sclerotia’s presence help diagnose Typhula Blight.

The Typhula fungi survive the summer in the soil or thatch as sclerotia. Active growth of the fungus resumes in the absence of light under snow cover on unfrozen ground. Growth takes place at temperatures as low as freezing (to slightly below freezing) and continues after snow melt in the spring for as long as the grass remains wet and the temperatures cold. Typhula activity stops when the temperature exceeds 45 F or the surface is dry.

Management practices for control of Typhula Blight are similar to those for Fusarium Patch. Fungicides are seldom needed in bluegrass lawns.


Fusarium Patch (Formerly Pink Snow Mold)


The Fusarium Patch fungus, Microdochium nivalis, produces yellowish patches from several inches to a foot in diameter which usually appear as soon as the snow begins to melt and continue to enlarge as long as the weather is cool and the grass wet. The patches soon take on a bleached appearance. When the grass remains wet, it may be covered by a mat of cottony mold which is off-white or faint pink. This pink color and the absence of sclerotia distinguish Fusarium Patch from Typhula Blight. Usually only the leaves of Kentucky bluegrass are killed but entire plants may be killed in years of severe snow mold activity.

Fusarium Patch develops under a snow cover on unfrozen ground and also can develop in cool wet weather in fall and spring as long as the temperature is between 32 and 60 F.

The two snow mold diseases do not occur every year on lawns, but are most apt to occur in a year when an early and deep snow cover prevents the ground from freezing. A cold open winter will not promote snow mold on lawns but may cause winter injury, with patches of grass dying because the crowns were killed by freezing and/or drying (desiccation).

Proper lawn management will reduce the danger of snow molds. Management practices include keeping the lawn mowed in the fall so that there is no thick mat of grass for the snow molds to develop on. Lawn areas where snow molds occur should not be heavily fertilized in late summer or early fall. A late fall application of fertilizer (after October 15) will not promote lush growth and snow mold. Snow molds do not occur often enough on lawns to merit a fall application of fungicide as a preventive measure unless there is a history of snow mold. When snow mold is observed in the spring it is usually too late to apply fungicide. Typhula Blight normally continues development for only a few days after the snow is gone. Fusarium Patch can develop longer, following snow melt, especially when cold rain or late spring snow is expected. The application of a fungicide might prevent additional damage from Fusarium Patch but is seldom recommended.




Rust on turf is identified by the orange pustules that break through the leaf surface.

Rust, caused by Puccinia spp., is not seen every year, but sometimes becomes severe on susceptible varieties during hot periods of the summer when grass growth is reduced. When rust is severe, the lawn may have a yellowish to reddish-orange appearance. A red-orange dust fills the air when the grass is mowed and also collects on shoes and clothing. Individual blades of grass will have slightly elongated yellow-orange to red-orange spots or pustules (filled with a rusty colored powder — the spores of the rust fungus) that break through the leaf surface. When rust is severe, the grass blades turn yellow, wither and die. Rust may also weaken a lawn, making it more susceptible to winter kill the following winter.

Rust is favored by humid weather with night temperatures of 70-75 F, day temperatures of 85-95 F, wetness from dew lasting many hours after sunrise, and frequent light rain (or watering). Rust may be especially severe on Merion and Touchdown varieties of bluegrass, which are highly susceptible. When weather favors rust, the disease is more likely to be severe on low maintenance lawns — lawns with low soil fertility and some degree of drought stress. It is also apt to be a problem in shady areas, on closely cut grass, and on newly laid sod.

Rust is easily controlled by maintaining good lawn growth with adequate fertilization and adequate watering. Once normal growth is obtained, mow the grass frequently at recommended mowing heights and remove the clippings, an important source of the rust fungus. Fungicides are not usually needed or economical for homeowners, but may be required to help protect new growth when rust is severe and weather promotes rust development.


Stripe Smut


Shreading of leaf blades by the stripe smut fungus.

Stripe Smut, caused by the fungus Ustilago striiformis, is a cool weather disease that sometimes shows up during long periods of cool weather in spring or fall. It is favored by extended periods of 50-60 F weather. No symptoms develop when summer temperatures are 90 F for long periods.

Lawns with Stripe Smut exhibit poor growth and often are patchy, uneven, and thin. Leaves on infected plants develop elongated streaks that are yellow-green, later turn gray, then finally black. When the streaks turn black, the leaf surface is broken and a black powder (spores of the smut fungus) is liberated from the black streaks. This lengthwise rupturing splits the leaves lengthwise into narrow strips or ribbons. The tips of these strips curl downward, the leaves turn brown and die. Infected plants may be killed, resulting in thin stands of grass.

Stripe Smut attacks some varieties of bluegrass, as well as creeping bentgrass. Control is seldom required since the disease is rarely severe. Where damage is occurring, an application of nitrogen and deep watering early in the day will stimulate growth and aid recovery. Avoid frequent light watering in late afternoon or evening, as this may promote disease development. If disease is severe, the fungicide benomyl may be used in late fall or early spring.


Red Thread


Bright red threadlike strands of the red thread fungus form near the tips or cut surfaces of the leaf blade.

Red Thread caused by the fungus Laetisaria fuciformis, is favored by cool, humid weather. Red Thread may become more common on lawns with fescue and ryegrass blends. Red Thread causes the lawn to have a bleached patchy appearance. Irregular areas, from several inches to several feet across, develop a whitish to pinkish color. Leaf blades and sheaths are attacked; at first they develop water-soaked or greasy green areas, then the affected parts dry out and become tan-colored. In wet weather the affected leaves are covered with a gelatinous pink fungus which then forms bright red threadlike strands near the tips of the leaves and from leaf to leaf.

The best temperatures for Red Thread development are 68-75 F. Red Thread can be quite severe on red fescue (a component of many shade-tolerant lawn grass mixtures) and may occasionally be severe on bluegrass.

Control with fungicides is not usually required for Red Thread. If soil nitrogen levels are low, fertilizing the lawn may help it to recover more rapidly. Deep watering and avoiding frequent light waterings, especially in late afternoon, may help to reduce damage. Collect grass clippings when the disease is active.


Pythium Blight


Watersoaked appearance of Pythium blighted turf.

Pythium Blight, caused by Pythium spp., occurs during hot, humid weather. Circular to irregular spots appear — initially 1-6 inches in diameter. Early in the morning these spots have a greasy green or water soaked appearance, and the grass feels slimy or greasy. Later the grass in these spots dies and the dead grass becomes light tan and shriveled. The affected areas may have a matted appearance and a cottony white growth may develop on the dead leaf blades during wet periods. Grass blades at the edges of dead patches may have straw-colored borderless lesions. This lack of a dark brown border on lesions distinguishes Pythium lesions from the lesions of Dollar Spot. If the grass was mowed while wet, Pythium Blight may be spread by mowing and develop in irregular streaks and patches in the direction of mowing. Pythium Blight also tends to follow drainage patterns.

Pythium Blight is most severe with day temperatures of 84-95 F and night temperatures above 68 F. The disease is more severe on heavily fertilized cool-season grasses. Wet soil and thatch also favor the disease. A film of water on the leaves is necessary for infection.

Control of Pythium Blight requires careful water management. Avoid excess water or watering late in the day when the plants may stay wet all night. Do not mow when the grass is wet, especially in hot weather. Avoid excess fertilizer, especially nitrogen fertilizer in hot weather. If the thatch is over 1/2 inch thick, remove excess thatch by dethatching. No fungicides for Pythium control are readily available to the homeowner, but several commercially applied products are very effective.


Fairy Rings


Inner and outer zones of stimulation, and zone of inhibition in turfgrass caused by fairy ring fungi.

Sometimes mushrooms will develop and form large circles in lawns. Each year the circle expands. When these circles or “Fairy Rings” are small there may be no effect on the grass, but as they continue to expand, a zone of stimulation forms where the mushrooms come up. Inside this is an area of poor grass growth, or even dead grass. This is the zone of inhibition. Another zone of stimulation may occur inside the dead or dying zone.

Fairy Rings are unsightly but very difficult to control, and the average homeowner may prefer to live with the problem. One way to eliminate Fairy Ring is to dig it out, although this is seldom practical. Mark out an area at least one foot beyond the ring and remove all sod in that area. Then remove all the soil in that area to a depth of one foot, being careful not to spill any on the lawn. Refill the hole with new soil and reseed or resod. Seeding is preferable as there is less danger of reintroducing the Fairy Ring fungi. Doing this job without spilling any soil and reintroducing the Fairy Ring fungi is extremely difficult.

For those who decide to live with the problem, there are several ways to minimize damage to the grass in Fairy Rings. The grass should be fertilized with nitrogen several times a year to help mask symptoms. Most of the Fairy Ring growth (a fungal mat) is in the ground underneath the Fairy Rings, and this growth causes the soil to become nearly impervious to water. Using a “root feeder” attachment on a garden hose, punch holes at least every foot in the yellowing or dying area and pump large amounts of water into the ground to a depth of 10-24 inches. Repeat frequently. Increasing the soil moisture may also change the ecological balance enough to retard the growth of the Fairy Ring fungi. Application of a wetting agent to the area may also increase soil permeability and help to lessen symptoms. Aeration also reduces the symptom severity.




In addition to Fairy Rings, various other mushrooms may appear in lawns, but not injure the grass. However, they may be unsightly and cause people to worry that children or pets may eat them. Some lawn mushrooms are poisonous to very poisonous, others are not poisonous There is no way to distinguish poisonous from non-poisonous except by correct identification as to genus and species.

There is no easy control for lawn mushrooms which appear whenever there is a protracted rainy period. These mushrooms grow on organic matter (including thatch) and decaying wood. Where possible, the removal of buried wooden scraps and old stumps will reduce greatly their food source and the number of mushrooms in future years. Mushrooms that do appear can be raked up and destroyed, minimizing danger to children or pets.


Slime Molds


White to gray slime mold on bluegrass turf.

Slime Molds occasionally form on grass during periods of prolonged rainfall and high humidity. A creamy white slimy substance accumulates on the grass. Later, this slimy substance becomes powdery and white, gray or blue-gray. Slime Molds do not cause any direct damage to the grass because they only grow over the surface of the leaf and do not attack it. However, they may cause some injury if they remain on the grass for a long period of time. The exclusion of light may cause a yellowing and weakening of the grass, making it more easily attacked by other organisms. The simplest control of Slime Molds is to brush them off the grass with a broom or rake.


Moss and Algae


Moss and algae are primitive green plants often found in densely shaded and moist lawn areas and sometimes on landscape materials and buildings. The best control involves improving soil drainage, increasing air circulation and light intensity, and planting shade-tolerant ground covers or turfgrass varieties. Chemical controls for algae are available but are only a temporary solution and may cause injury to adjacent vegetation.


Dog Damage


Grass may be injured by dog urine. The spots resemble Dollar Spot or Rhizoctonia Blight. The difference is that outside the area of dead grass there is often a zone of grass with luxuriant growth. Heavy watering will wash down excess salts and help the grass recover.


Abiotic (Non-Living) Agents of Disease


Chemical agents (pesticides, salts, fertilizers, and fuel or oil) can cause direct damage. Materials applied to turf for a purpose, such as fertilizer or herbicides, usually produce damage in a pattern that repeats or follows the applicator technique. Spills of products such as oil, gas, and cleaners usually result in severe, long lasting dead patches. It is often necessary to know what was done on the turf area to correctly diagnose the damage. If the spilled product is quickly removed and/or washed away some damage can be prevented. Some products can be inactivated with absorbent materials such as activated charcoal.

Physical agents (temperature, water and ice, soil compaction, buried objects, and thatch) can damage turf. So can high or low temperatures. Winter kill may be direct from ice crystals forming in cells or indirect (dehydration) when unfrozen plants are in frozen soil. Hot objects like engine exhaust or containers of hot liquids placed even for a short period on live grass will kill plants. Even solar radiation and lightning strikes can kill grass. Water extremes cause many turf problems and cannot always be separated from temperature effects. Lack of water obviously restricts plant growth and makes plants more susceptible to damage. Water deficiency symptoms are greater next to sidewalks, driveways and buildings, on sloped areas or in shallow soil. Soils can become impervious to water due to compaction or biological activity (referred to as a localized dry spot). An excess of water, either flooding or saturation of soils, creates conditions for poor root growth and results in weakened or dead turf. Ice layers can cause turf suffocation. Thatch, the layer of plant litter on the soil surface, can reduce movement of water, air, and nutrients into the soil and restrict movement of gases out of the soil. Roots growing in a thatch layer are at high risk to drought, high temperature damage, and disease.

Mechanical agents (mower injury, scalping, and abrasion) also have negative effects on turf. A dull mower blade does not cut the leaf cleanly. Leaf shredding, common with dull rotary mowers, causes the leaf tip to turn brown and die. The injury can assist disease entry and gives the lawn a grayish cast. Mowing grass so short that yellow or brown tissue is exposed is called scalping. This may result from a wheel dropping into a depression or from infrequent mowing. Grass can die after being scalped. Some recovery does occur from underground stems and rhizomes if scalping is not repeated. Grass can wear out and die from excessive use: such as base areas from softball games, the front line of a volley ball game, or push-off areas under swings. If the activity did not remove the grass crown, recovery can be expected. Rotate activity zones and aerify soils to prevent damage and encourage plant regrowth.

Credit for the information related to turf diseases:

Lawn Diseases

PP-950 (ND), Reviewed July 1996
AG FO-3386 (MN)

H. Arthur Lamey, Extension Plant Pathologist, North Dakota State University
Cynthia L. Ash, Assistant Extension Specialist, University of Minnesota
Ward C. Stienstra, Extension Plant Pathologist, University of Minnesota

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Do’s and Don’t when planning your landscaping

When beginning your landscape from scratch or reconstructing,  simply walk out into the yard in the far back corner and stand. Give yourself some time and just imagine what the best look.  Be sure to take in account the size of yard you have, what the neighbors may have done, what you have done in the past, or if you need to keep it clean for the kids. Take notes of ideas from others you know and professionals. Look on the internet. Look on the TV. Look into magazines, coffee shops, home depot, etc. A few meditative minutes could save you hours of frustration.


Taking away lawn and putting in a large patio or brick surfacing will be easier to maintain.  A fun yard is a soft yard when asking children. There is no substitute for grass. It is hard to put in, but once it is there, the maintenance really isn’t that bad. A lawn is a much better choice than gravel or pavement. Excessive gardens and small pathways will actually create more mud because the grass will be so trodden on that it can’t grow back.


Define what the focal point is in the landscaping design. It is an element in the yard that draws the attention of the eye. A good example of one is a fountain, or small pond. The focal point will be different for every yard. A bad example would be a yard with nothing but a lawn. No matter how flat and fluffy the lawn is, it won’t be talked about by the neighbors unless you have a focal point feature such as a fountain or a fire pit. But don’t go overboard. A nice little pond never hurt anyone.


You most likely have an idea of how much you want to spend on your landscape project. Be sure that whatever you put in your yard, you are going to use. An example of this is the expensive outdoor kitchen that gets used once a year. There are all kinds of appliances that appear to be necessary for a decent yard. Remember that you have a kitchen in the house. Spend the money where it counts and don’t get carried away.


Mixing and Matching is harder than it looks and must be done. Designing a landscape is a lot like writing a musical composition. Playing the same note isn’t very exciting, but adding sharps and flats here and there, with multiple instruments, creates a feel for the listener. It is the same with landscaping. Use tall and small trees. Plant violet and yellow flowers. Stay away from the sameness look. It does get more complicated, but it is well worth it. Mixing and matching is great with color and objects, but the style must stay the same, or else you will be spending a lot more money on Tylenol to get rid of those headaches.


Much like mixing and matching, the style you choose must be consistent and appealing. The best way to get ideas on style is to go on a Sunday afternoon drive. See what other people have done, or haven’t done. By looking at others strengths and mistakes, you’ll be able to make an educated decision on which style will look best for your home. Once again, speaking with the professionals at Blade and Petal Landscaping won’t hurt. Once you pick a style, stick to it. If you mix the wrong styles, you won’t have one.


When treated the right way, lighting can be used to your great advantage. It is a chance to focus on the items in your yard that you cherish the most, such as a lit up fountain. Not only does lighting provide a pristine look, it also provides security, safety and a higher electrical bill, so be careful not to buy the high energy light bulbs. If you plan on spending a lot of time on your back patio sipping ice cold beverages next to the fire, give your guests something to look at. Some good ideas for lighting would be lighted paths, fountains or flowerbeds.


The hardscape of a yard adds character. You will want to leave room for the lawn, walkways and such, but you ought to consider adding patios and steps. This gives you an opportunity to add accents to Mother Nature in your yard. Good hardscaping leads you through the landscape and gives you a sense of what the designer was trying to capture. You will also want to provide a spot where you can sit and look at your landscape. Don’t make the only view the one from the window. It may be the most difficult thing to design, but it will be the most beneficial feature to your yard.


The best investment you can make for your yard is picking the best plants from a local, professional grower or nursery.  Speak to a local plant nursery and ask them for their advice. They will know what plants do the best, and they may even try to sell you some. The look of your yard will also be dependent on how well your plants look in relation to surrounding houses and parks. You don’t have to be the same as everyone, but you ought to be a quite similar.


The most important decisions you’ll make will hardly be noticed with the naked eye. You must have proper drainage, a solid deck foundation and the pond must have the appropriate amount of sand and gravel underneath. Another important decision is the hardware, or sprinklers. Be sure to get your sprinklers done properly and no shortcuts. If you let anything slide, you may be digging your yard up a few times a year to make repairs that should have been done correctly the first time.


We at Blade and Petal Landscaping hope this information has been helpful.  You know what you like and dislike.  We are here to help you sort through your ideas to create that landscaping that your friends talk about.  Homeownership pride begins on the outside.

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Shrub, Hedges and Bushes

Trimming hedges is one of the least enjoyable gardening jobs. Apparently, its right down there with weeding and composting as people’s least favorite chores, with most clients rating it a tedious job. Blade and Petal Landscaping utilizes the right equipment and knowledgeable crew.

A hedge becomes thick as a result of regular trimming where each cut gives rise to a branch. Hedges need more than just annual trimming — you must pay attention to watering and feeding, and to the control of pests, diseases and disorders if they are to remain healthy and attractive.

Watering is necessary during dry spells in the growing season — hedging plants are generally spaced much closer than other garden plants and so their roots compete heavily for water. You can use a garden hose or sprinkler, but the most effective method is to lay a seep hose along the base of the hedge. Apply enough water to saturate the top 15cm (6in) of soil — equivalent to 2.5cm (1in) of rainfall — at each application and repeat whenever the top 2.5cm (1in) of soil is dry.

Mulching annually with forest bark around the roots of a hedge will help to prevent undue water loss from the soil.

Feeding should be carried out regularly. Apply a general-purpose fertilizer, such as bone meal, at the rate of a generous handful per sq m/yd in spring as a soil dressing. Treat a strip up to 90cm (3ft) wide from the base of the hedge and hoe the fertilizer into the surface 2.5cm (1in). Water it in if the soil is dry.

If the root run of the hedge is under turf or paving, then apply nutrients as a foliar feed from a pressure sprayer. Use a liquid fertilizer which is rich in nitrogen for leaf growth. Repeat whenever the foliage appears dull and lacking vigor. Foliage sprays can also be applied as a mid to late season back-up to the main spring soil dressing.

Weeding Around the Bottom of Hedging Plants

Eliminate weeds from the base of a hedge using a draw hoe, by hand or with chemical sprays. Weeds compete with the hedge for nutrients, water and light so remove them before they begin to accumulate.

Water-soluble diquat and paraquat weed killers are effective against most weeds under a hedge, but avoid wetting the leaves of the hedge. Glyphosate in liquid or gel form is ideal for killing persistent perennial and annual weeds.

Cutting out dead wood is another vital task. Branches often die out in the center of an established hedge. These should be pruned away since they can harbor diseases such as coral spot which soon spread through the entire hedge. Make clean cuts with secateurs back to healthy wood. This is best done during the growing season when live wood is clearly visible.

If a whole plant dies out within a hedge, grub it out and replace with a young specimen after first preparing and conditioning the soil as for planting a new hedge.

Pests and diseases should be treated as for other garden shrubs and trees. Healthy plants are resistant; use chemicals with care and discretion.

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Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass is one of the few warm season grass varieties that will grow a little further north into the colder climates —  see the adaptation map below. It will turn brown at the first dip in temperature though. More cold tolerant and high quality varieties are being developed constantly  — such as Yukon Bermuda grass seed. In the more warmer tropical south, during average rainfall years, Bermuda will retain a beautiful green color all year round. This grass can be grown on low to high maintenance schedules depending upon the usage. Lawns planted in Bermuda grass can attain full lawn coverage in one year. It is not uncommon for seeded Bermuda lawns to be established within 60-90 days.

Annual Maintenance Schedule

March Through May Mowing: Bermuda grass performs best when mowed between ¾ and 1½ inches. Begin mowing as soon as the lawn turns green in spring. Always leave the clippings on the lawn in a practice called ‘grass-cycling’. Grass clippings decompose quickly and do not contribute to thatch. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings begin to clump, they can be collected and used as mulch. For more information on mowing, refer to HGIC 1205, Mowing Lawns. Fertilizing: Apply ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet several weeks after complete green-up. Submit a soil sample to determine nutrient and lime requirements. In the absence of a soil test, use a slow-release, complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf fertilizer with a 4-1-2 ratio such as 16-4-8. Apply lime if suggested. To determine the amount of product needed to apply 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 16-4-8 fertilizer, divide 100 by 16. The result is 6.25 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet (100/16 = 6.25 of 16-4-8). For more information on fertilizing lawns refer to HGIC 1201, Fertilizing Lawns. Irrigation: As a general rule, irrigate when 30 to 50 percent of the lawn shows sign of wilt. Probe with a screwdriver to ensure the top 4 to 6 inches of soil are moist following irrigation. Do not irrigate again until the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermuda grass needs a total weekly application of about 1 to 1 ¼ inches of water. Sandy soils often require more frequent watering, for example, ¾-inch of water every third or fourth day. For more information on watering lawns refer to HGIC 1207, Watering Lawns. Weed Control: Apply pre-emergence herbicides to control summer annual weeds when forsythia or red buds are in full bloom. Apply post emergence herbicides in May as needed to control summer annual and perennial broad leaf weeds. Be sure that the product is labeled for use on bermuda grass. Post emergence herbicides are applied when weeds are present, and at least three weeks after the lawn has greened up. For more information on weed control refer to HGIC 2310, Managing Weeds in Warm Season Lawns. Thatch Removal: Vertically mow in May to remove the thatch after the lawn becomes green, but only if the thatch is more than ½-inch thick. After de-thatching, irrigate with ¾ to 1 inch of water. Fertilize with 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet if the lawn has not already been fertilized. Renovation:Replant large bare areas using sod or sprigs (3 to 5 bushels per 1,000 square feet). Common bermuda grass can be seeded using hulled bermuda grass at 1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Do not seed hybrid bermuda grass lawns with common bermuda grass. Use sod or sprigs of the existing hybrid instead.

June Through August

Mowing: Bermuda grass performs best when mowed between ¾ and 1½ inches. Fertilizing: Apply ½ to 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet every 4 to 8 weeks. Irrigation: As a general rule, irrigate when 30 to 50% of the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermuda grass needs a total weekly application of about 1 to 1¼ inches of water. Insect Control: August is the best time to control white grubs because they are small and close to the soil surface. Mole crickets will begin to hatch in June. Use a soap flush technique to determine if mole crickets are present. For details on the soap flush technique, see EIIS/TO-1, Mole Cricket Management for the Home Lawn. Weed Control: Apply post emergence herbicides as needed to control summer annual and perennial weeds. For more information on weed control, see HGIC 2310, Managing Weeds in Warm Season Lawns. Thatch Removal: Vertically mow to remove the thatch if it is more than ½ inch thick. It normally is best to vertically mow in spring whenever possible.

September Through November Mowing: Mow the lawn between ¾ and 1½ inches until several weeks before the first expected frost. Raise the mowing height by ½ inch as winter approaches if the lawn will not be over seeded. Mowing height is usually raised in mid to late September in the Piedmont and early October in other areas. Fertilization: In September, if a soil test reports deficient potassium (K) levels, apply 1 pound of potash (K2O) per 1000 square feet, using muriate of potash (0-0-60), potassium sulfate (0-0-50), or Sul-Po-Mag (0-0-22). Irrigation: Irrigate when 30 to 50% of the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermuda grass needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1¼ inches of water. Dormant bermuda grass may need to be watered periodically when dry, warm, windy weather prevails. Weed Control: Apply pre-emergence or post emergence herbicides as needed to control winter annual and perennial broad leaf weeds. Pre-emergence herbicides are most effective when applied as nighttime temperatures drop into the upper 50s. Preemergence herbicides do not control existing perennial weeds. Apply post emergence herbicides only when weeds are present. Do not apply herbicides designed to control annual bluegrass if the lawn is to be over seeded with ryegrass. Insect Control: Continue to monitor for white grubs and control if necessary. Overseeding: Overseeding with ryegrass for winter color should be done in mid September in mountain and Piedmont areas, and early October in coastal areas.

December Through February Mowing: Mow over seeded bermuda grass at 1 inch before the grass gets taller than 1½ inches. Do not collect the clippings unless they accumulate heavily on the surface. Dormant bermuda grass that has not been over seeded need not be mowed. Overseed Fertilization: Do not fertilize bermuda grass that has not been over seeded. Apply ½ pound of N per 1,000 square feet in December and February to over seeded bermuda grass. Irrigation: Dormant bermuda grass may have to be watered periodically to prevent desiccation, especially when warm, windy weather prevails. Watering is particularly important for lawns that have been over seeded. Weed Control: Apply broad leaf herbicides as needed to control winter weeds such as chickweed, henbit, and hop clover. Selective herbicides can be applied in November or December to lawns that have not been over seeded to control annual bluegrass (Poa annua) and several winter annual broadleaf weeds.


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Centipede grass

For a maintenance schedule for Centipede care, visit our “LAWN CARE” at top of page.

This creeping perennial is well adapted to the sandy, acidic soils of low fertility and requires low maintenance. It spreads by stolons and has a coarse texture with short upright stems that grow to about 3-5 inches and requiring less mowing, survives in mild cold temperatures as long as there aren’t several hard freezes since it doesn’t go into a true dormancy and with light freezes will turn brown but as soon as the temperature rises it will recover and re-greens.

Centipede grass is a slow-growing, apple-green, coarse-leaved turf grass that is adapted for use as a low maintenance, general purpose turf. It requires little fertilizer (one to two pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year), infrequent mowing, and will tolerate moderate shade if it receives at least four hours of full sun, daily. It does not tolerate traffic, compaction, high phosphorus soils, high pH, low-potassium soils, excessive thatch, drought, or heavy shade. Centipede grass (Eremochloa ophiuroides) was introduced into the United States from seed found in the baggage of Frank Meyer, a USDA plant explorer who disappeared on his fourth trip to China in 1916. It was initially used for low-maintenance cemeteries and eventually for lawns during and after the Depression and is sometimes referred to as “lazy man’s grass” or “poor man’s grass”. It is well adapted to the climate and soils of the coastal plains and lower Piedmont areas of the southern United States.

Centipede grass is a low-growing and medium-textured naturally yellow-green colored perennial turf. Its low fertility requirements result in slow growth and reduced maintenance. Centipede grass’ natural color is Granny Smith crab apple green. Over fertilizing to obtain an unnatural dark green color reduces its cold tolerance and usually increases long-term maintenance problems. Centipede grass is currently the most common home lawn turf grass in the South. Centipede grass is adapted to infertile soils. It spreads by stolons, producing a medium-textured turf. Maintenance requirements are low when compared to other turf grasses. It has fair to good shade tolerance, good drought tolerance, and can be established from seed or sod. Since it only produces surface runners (stolons), centipede grass is easily controlled around borders of flowerbeds and walks. Centipede grass is highly susceptible to damage from nematodes (especially ring nematodes) and ground pearl insects. Nematode damage limits centipede grass’ use in deep sandy soils. It exhibits iron Chloris (yellowing) and produces a heavy thatch if over fertilized. It has poor salt tolerance and forms a loose turf that is not very wear-resistant, so it will not withstand heavy foot traffic. Stolons from centipede grass have high lignin content and do not decompose readily, thus developing a thatch layer. The rate of thatch accumulation is a direct result of management practices, which provide excessive vegetative growth. When over fertilized, the subsequent growth means new runners are soon several inches above the soil surface and exposed to the wide fluctuations of temperatures normally experienced in late fall and winter. Within several years, large brown dead patches form in early spring. This die back is collectively referred to as “centipede grass decline.” Following proper management techniques can prevent this problem: Avoid over fertilizing (e.g., 0 to 2 lbs N per 1000 sq.ft. yearly) Prevent thatch accumulation or remove thatch when it exceeds ½-inch in thickness Irrigate during drought stress, especially in the fall and early spring Maintain a mowing height of 1½ to 2 inches.

Improved varieties of centipede grass are available, including Centennial, Oaklawn, Tenn Turf (formerly, Tennessee Hardy), Top Quality and TifBlair. The improved cultivars have better cold tolerance than common. However, these must be vegetatively propagated and are selected specifically for their improved cold tolerance. Centennial will perform a little better on alkaline soil than common centipede grass. The centipede grass seed and sod produced in most Southern areas are a mixture of red- and yellow-stemmed grasses.